www.mrtruck.net . Heavy-duty ¾ tons, 1 tons and larger will have heavier springs, shocks and in some cases thicker, stronger frames. In recent years pickup truck manufactures have designed a different look between the ½ ton and ¾ ton. The majority of the time, if you compare a ½ ton to a ¾ ton pickup with the same gas engine option, the price is very close. And the ¾ tons will usually have more rear axle ratio and tow package options. Because of the value of a ¾ ton verses the price of a ½ ton, I usually recommend a heavy-duty ¾ ton. But keep in mined because of a slight weight difference and the higher axle ratio in a ½ ton pickup, that a ½ ton can have better gas mileage. The EPA doesn’t test fuel mileage on most ¾ ton trucks if they are over 8500# GVWR, (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating,) so you won’t find a fuel mileage rating on ¾ ton and higher trucks.

Here is the break down of manufacture models.

·½ tons, Ford (F100, F150,) GM, (Chevy, GMC) ½ tons, (C or K10, 15, 1500, HD 1500) Dodge, (D100, 150, Ram 1500.) Toyota, (T100, Tundra,)

·¾ tons, Ford (Light Duty F250, Heavy Duty, Super Duty, F250,) GM, (Chevy, GMC) (C or K 20, 25, 2500, HD 2500) Dodge, (D200, 250, Ram 2500.)

·1 tons, Ford (F350,) GM, (C or K 30, 35, 3500, HD 3500) Dodge, (D300, 350, Ram 3500.)

·1 ½ tons, Ford (Super Duty, F450, F550,) GM, (Heavy Duty Series 3500 Cab and Chassis, C4500 and C5500,) Dodge, (3500 Cab and Chassis.)

If you are pulling a fifth wheel or gooseneck trailer, I recommend a long bed. Sometimes in some RV parks or in a corral you will need to “jack knife” your trailer. (Your truck and trailer at 90 degrees.) Your trailer should generally be attached to your truck 2 to 4 inches in front of your rear axle, ( I prefer 5 inches); this is where I recommend for proper steering weight and a level load. If you have a short box and you “jack-knife,” your trailer may kiss your cab! Full sheets of plywood or sheet rock fit into a long box with the tailgate closed. Short boxes are popular today with the mini- garages and those famous drive-up windows. If you end up with a short bed, there are “sliding hitches,” you can buy to move you trailer hitch forward or backward to give you more room between the cab and the neck of the trailer for “jack-knifing.” See http://www.pullrite.com, or http://www.ultimatetrucksolutions.com

I have pulled a lot of different trailers and remember how glad I was when I could afford to go from a bumper pull type trailer to a gooseneck. Fifth wheel or gooseneck trailers pull so straight with very little “whip” if loaded correctly compared to bumper types. And talk about backing a trailer. Bumper type trailers seem to react twice as fast as an easy going slow reacting “anybody could back-it,” gooseneck trailer.

#2 Do you need a diesel or gas engine in your pickup?

The right diesel can dramatically out pull a gas engine. Ever see a gas powered semi-truck? Diesels will generally last longer and get better fuel economy. At the present time they have better resale value. On fuel mileage, the diesel can at times, double the mileage of a gas engine. But they cost more than $4000 new over a gas engine. It generally takes 80,000 miles of fuel savings to pay for a diesel verses a gas engine. So if you keep a truck a long time, after 80,000 miles the rest is gravy. If you trade often and don’t pull a trailer a lot, you should consider a gas engine. If you keep them a long time, or pull trailers constantly, the cost of the diesel option will be minimized.

You know diesels are louder than gas engines. Diesel explodes inside your engine, while gas ignites. You really don’t notice this flying down the road. But if you live in town, you’ll notice the guy down the street who starts his diesel at 4 am and warms it up for an hour and the people at the drive up windows seem to notice you in a diesel. If you buy a diesel with a manual transmission, it will require more skill to shift. The compression is twice that of a gas engine, which means you have to shift faster and time the R.P.M.’s a little closer for a smooth shift.

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#3 What do you need to know about diesel fuel, winter, maintenance, and emissions?

Diesels need the heat from glow plugs or manifold heaters to aid in warming up the cylinders for starting. In very cold conditions, (-10 F) you will need to plug in block heaters and be sure you are using blended fuel, #2 and #1. Normally diesels run on #2 diesel. #2 has lubricating qualities that make it oily, smelly and stays on your hands for a few days. #1 diesel is like kerosene or jet fuel and less oily. The lubricating properties in #2 are what gels when extremely cold. This is why a blend of #2 and #1 50/50 is used in the winter by most service stations in states that get cold. But if you go to a warm state, (California, Arizona, Florida, etc,) in the winter and buy fuel there before coming home, you may want to use a diesel additive. If you are out of your area, buy your diesel at a truck stop. They should know what you need.

If you have never experienced gelling up a diesel in the winter, be happy. I have had this experience on my farm tractors. I had to use a hair dryer to liquidify the fuel in the injector pump and then “crack” the fuel lines to bleed the fuel through the pump and injectors. Most states don’t get cold enough to plug in the block heater on your diesel. But if you are in the colder areas and need to plug in your diesel, I like to use a timer you can buy from Wal-Mart for $12 to $15. You only need to set the timer to turn on for a couple of hours before you’re ready to use your truck.

Oil changes can cost two to three times as much or more than gas trucks. In area’s where you are required to have an emission test on trucks, the diesel emission test costs more and sometimes is required more often. In Colorado you get 2 years emission exemption when the truck is new and after that you are required to be tested every year in certain Front Range counties. Today the break in period on new engines is generally 500 miles. During that time you don’t want to use your cruise control. You need to vary the R.P.M.’s so the valves and rings can seat properly through the whole R.P.M range. On a diesel it generally takes 5000 miles to adjust itself. After the 5000 miles, diesels tend to start faster and the fuel mileage is as good as it gets from the factory.

Diesel is safer to handle than gas as far as fire. With the new turbo diesels, smoke is not the problem it use to be before turbo’s. Because diesel has to explode to combust, the engine components are built heavier than gas engines. But the diesel mechanic rate per hour is higher than for gas engines.

Most of these diesel engines have a bleeder valve on or near your fuel filter to drain off water from the fuel; diesel engines are prone to condensation in the fuel tanks. Semi-tractor trailer rigs have dual large fuel filters and air filters. If you pay close attention to servicing your fuel filter, air filter, oil, oil filter, and radiator service at the right intervals you should expect to join the 300,000-mile club with your diesel pickup truck. For more information on oil and filters Click

#4 Which transmission will work best for you? Warning about overdrive.

Pickup truck transmissions have come a long way since the 80’s. With the invention of the lock up torque converter in automatic transmissions, the better-made transmissions today can stand up to the torque put out by diesel engines and help slow you down. Practically all of the buses and more medium duty big trucks are going to automatic transmissions. Folks who drive mostly in the mountains like the engine braking they get with manual transmissions and the extra gears. Manufactures generally will give you around 3000 pounds more towing warranty on the automatic tranny on ½ ton pickups and smaller. This is because of the automatic transmission lock up torque converter, which locks up mechanically like a clutch and pressure plate, the absence of asbestos, (heat resistant,) from clutch discs, the torque converter doubling the torque coming from the engine flywheel, and the manufactures having more faith in the computer knowing when to shift verses us human types.

Diesels are generally harder to shift with a manual transmission than are gas-powered trucks. Because of the power and compression of a diesel, (usually twice the compression of a gas engine,) this compression, when you let off the gas pedal and engage the clutch pedal, causes the truck to decelerate quicker than the same process in a gas powered truck. So you have to shift a diesel quicker to avoid the jerk between gears. An automatic transmission on the other hand requires no such skill. I work in the city, with all of those stop signs and traffic lights; you know I drive an automatic. If I pulled a heavy trailer, (at the limits of the trucks capacity,) in the mountains, I would opt for a manual transmission. That compression in the diesel mentioned earlier helps slow you down. Each gear you shift too will hold you there. And I like all the gears I can find, when I’m going down a mountain with a heavy trailer chasing me! Especially in the Dodge with the in-line 6 cylinder Cummins diesel that has basically 1000rpm’s less in the power band than a V-8 diesel found in Ford and GM. The extra gears will give you more top speed and staying power. Dodge also increases the torque by 45 pounds and the horsepower by 10 in the 6-speed manual transmission over their automatic transmission.

In the newer 3/4 ton and larger trucks, all three makes use the same basic 6-speed manual tranny. With Ford and GM, they rate the auto and manual transmission close or the same depending on which month or year they were built. The Ford 4R100 automatic transmission in the F250 and above diesel or gas engine, will lockup its torque converter in third gear. Which is where you would want the transmission to lockup when pulling a load most of the time. The new Allison 1000 automatic transmission behind GM’s new Duramax diesel or the new 8.1L gas engine will lock up the torque converter in each gear. This would be an advantage for the novice driver coming down the mountain loaded. Even an experienced driver can get a little nervous if they miss a gear on a manual using the fast side of the mountain. The Allison also has a downshifting feature just like the medium duty two-ton trucks that downshifts a gear when you let off the gas pedal and tap the brake pedal in tow mode.

But again in the mountains the more gears the better and you can leave it each gear longer when you are down shifting a manual transmission. The rest of the time diesels are a pain to shift all day if you are using it as a car. If you are only going to pull a 10,000 #’ gooseneck or fifth wheel trailer, a ¾-ton, (F250, C-K 20, 2500) will do. If you were in the future planning on hauling larger loads, then the 1-ton, (F350, C-K 30, 3500) or larger would be better. Generally the factory dually or cab and chassis dually have larger brakes and axles. The brakes on the newer Ford, Dodge, Chevy and GMC will be 4 wheel disc brakes, which are great at getting rid of the extra heat generated braking hard and cost less to replace.

Warning about overdrive in automatic transmissions.

Automatic transmissions overdrive saves you fuel. And on fairly flat roads with the right engine combinations you can use overdrive with a load. Generally overdrive has very little engine braking ability. I’m near the mountains and here you don’t use the overdrive on an auto tranny when you are loaded. Coming down the mountain loaded in overdrive can be freewheeling life threatening experience. Overdrive as I said earlier is designed to save fuel not slow you down. The transmissions will also generally run cooler under a heavy load if you shift down one gear out of overdrive. I’m glad to see the improvements that have come to pickup truck automatics, the only problem is this means they can pull bigger trailers oh my.

#5 Duals or Single Rear Wheels?

I get asked about the need for dual wheels on pickups quite often. Dual wheels will carry more weight. Most of the weight limits manufactures put on their trucks are conservative to avoid breakdowns in drive trains, axles and frames. On my farm-ranch I was loaded above the weight limits most of the time. My trucks had to pay for themselves. But today in the cities with so many lanes side by side and in the mountains I stay a lot closer to the proper load limits in heavy traffic. It’s just not worth the risk of breaking an axle or burning a clutch and endangering other folks. I’ve seen universal joints break and watched drive shafts bounced off the pavement and swing around coming close to hitting the fuel tanks. Now I find other ways to get my thrills!

The reason I eventually went with a dually is dirt roads. Dirt roads test everything, the ruts in them remind you to that if the truck and trailer track the same, they pull better. The newer trailers are wider and track better behind the dual wheels. Dirt roads also eat the magnets, which activate the trailer brakes in the hubs of the trailer axle. Because of that, I never relied on the trailer brakes. It would surprise you have much better dual wheels will brake. Generally going from a 1-ton single rear wheel, (Ford F350, Dodge, GM 30,3500) to a 1-ton dually will give you one size larger axles and brakes, (Dana axles in Ford and Dodge, Eaton in GM.) Duallies also give better stability for the bigger overhead slide in campers.

Of course the disadvantages are worse mileage from the extra weight and drag, the cost of the extra tires, they are 8 feet wide and scrape drive up windows. On the farm when I wasn’t pulling a trailer and needed to get around in the snow and mud better, I pulled the outside duals off. If the dually is not a cab- and-chassis type, but a regular bed with fender extensions for the outside wheel, the inside dual will track behind the front tire. With duals you will need to carry a hammer around to check for flats by pounding on the face of the tire just like the big rigs do. You can’t see if one of the tires is flat by glancing at it. If one of the duals is flat for a long drive, the vibration can cause the wheels to loosen up the lug nuts. Make sure you have wide enough mirrors and the spotter mirrors to see past the duals to monitor which trailer tire is trying to go flat.

I have pulled a 32’and 33' flatbed goosenecks for years behind a ¾ ton and later a 1 ton dually on the plains. I went to a dually just for the braking advantage. My trailers were triple axles with electric brakes and I usually pulled on dirt roads that ate up the brakes and the magnets that activated them. With duals on the truck I could count on stopping where as I couldn’t depend on the trailer brakes.

Later in my trailer adventures I did go to a 2-ton truck, (a C65 Chevy) which I pulled my trailer daily with. Especially in the mountains, I would want all the gears I could find. Most of the 2-ton trucks will have 6 to 10 gears and look at the size of the brake drums on those puppies, along with a larger clutch. They are made to be loaded all the time. My 2-ton gave me the least amount of trouble hauling loads and pulling trailers. I bought a 2-ton freight truck with a van box that we cut off and made a 20’ flat bed out of. Then with that long of a box I was able to put the gooseneck ball closer to the end so I had a cargo area and could pull a trailer. Nothing beats a gooseneck or 5th wheel trailer for pulling; they track better and back up better. It’s also nice to have a heavy truck pulling the trailer. It gives you more control when you brake going down hill keeps the trailer behind you instead of trying to pass you. For heavy campers I like a dually the best. They are a pain because they are 8 ft. wide. But extra tires make me feel safer. The new Heavy Duty truck models, have longer springs to improve the ride. But this also allows more spring travel. Campers are notorious for side wind. In these newer trucks, they move too much side to side with a camper. I recommend air bags on the rear axle. This should stabilize it. This is true whether a single or dual rear wheel.

#6 Which axle ratio do I need, limited slip axle or not?

I personally like lower gears. Dodge is the truck you want to choose axle ratios wisely. When I was an AAA Auto Club broker, I sold Dodge, Ford and GM. If the client was using the Dodge truck for a car, I recommend the 3.54 rear axle ratio to give them more speed on the top end do to the narrow R.P.M. band of the in-line 6 cylinder Cummins diesel. If my customer was planning to pull trailers in the mountains, I recommended the 4.10 ratio. The lower axle ration, 4.10 also helped the truck run cooler under a load. I have had several customers come to me after they spent the $40,000 to buy the wrong truck and now they can’t pull their new $70,000 R.V. trailer in the mountains without overheating. This is the were the financial term Up-Side-Down came from. It’s a retirement nightmare. On newer Ford and GM, the diesels usually only come with one rear axle ratio. On Ford you get a 4.10 on a 1-ton dually. Axle ratios vary across the country on lighter duty trucks, ½ tons, because of elevation. The new truck computers will adjust for elevation with constant adjustments to air volume, injection pressure and timing.

Limited slip differentials.

Generally in a limited slip rear end a clutch engages when the right wheel, which is the driver, spin’s, allowing both rear wheels to give you traction. It’s usually beneficial to have it unless you are pulling heavy loads most of the time and on dirt or mud wearing the clutch in the differential. I like them myself, they will get you rolling without the 4x4 a lot of the time. I have friends who pull trailers constantly in mud and snow in Eastern Colorado who won’t buy a limited slip axle because they are spinning their tires a lot and wear out the clutch in the differential on the limited slip axle.

#7 Will this truck pull my trailer?

The first question is which transmission do you have? In the heavy-duty ¾ ton and larger it will not be as important as far a manufactures warranty, because you are at their warranty limits and usually they will list the same trailer weights for both manual and automatic transmissions. On lighter trucks,(1/2 ton,150 1500, or the mini trucks, Tacoma, Ranger, S10, Frontier, etc,) usually the automatic transmissions are rated to pull 3000#’s or more than a manual transmission. The reason being, the Asbestos is gone from the clutch, which improved the friction qualities, also the auto trannies have a lockup torque converter that locks up mechanically like a clutch and pressure plate behind a manual transmission. And the torque converter doubles the torque coming from the flywheel with an auto and the computers now determine when the auto shift’s instead of a human making that decision. Knowing when to shift is important for pulling a trailer, getting better fuel mileage and getting longer life from your engine. When your truck is new the warranty will cover your auto transmission but it will not replace your clutch with a manual transmission. If I was driving in the mountains pulling a large trailer most of the time, I would use a manual transmission with a diesel. I like having all the gears I can find when coming down the mountain. On the other hand if you were not experienced at down shifting a manual tranny on the fast side of the mountain, the automatic should be your choice. Match your trailers GVWR, (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating,) with the GVWR of your truck as limited by the manufacture, to come up with the total GCWR, (Gross Combination Weight Rating.) This is the total weight you can be loaded. You also need to know your GAWR, (Gross Axle Weight Rating,) and tongue weight of the trailer. Before you make a decision on the truck that will pull your trailer, test drive a diesel and a large displacement gas engine. Hopefully you can drive them loaded.

Always read your owner’s manual about your particular trucks weight limits, pulling limits, and gross vehicle weight rating!

#8 Bed liners, resale and safety.

I was surprised when I moved to Denver to sell trucks and saw used five year old pickups with beds that looked new. My trucks on my farm-ranch, it had to pay for itself. After I dropped the first salt block and 1500# big round bale in the bed, it just didn’t look the same. But that’s where bed liners come in. They can keep the dents from lowering your resale value. If you don’t haul a fuel tank or fuel containers in your truck bed, the cheaper plastic bed liners will work. If you haul fuel cells or fuel containers you are better with a sprayed in bed liner or nothing at all.

With slide in plastic bed liners you want to be careful with fuel containers. There is a gap between the bed liner and the pickup sheet metal floor, sometimes building up static electricity. Gasoline fires suspected of being started by a spark of static electricity during fuel transfer are rare. Almost none of the documented incidents involve direct fueling of a truck because both vehicles and dispensers are designed to dissipate static electricity to the ground. Instead, they involve fueling situations where the gasoline receptacle could be insulated from ground-portable containers and equipment being transported on a truck or trailer.

Gasoline has a low electrical conductivity; it does not conduct electricity very well. As a result, a charge of static electricity builds up on gasoline as it flows through a pipe or hose and this charge takes several seconds to several minutes to dissipate after the gasoline has reached a tank or container. If this charge discharges as a spark from a tank or container to the grounded metal nozzle of the gasoline dispenser hose, it may ignite the gasoline. Ignition requires that the spark occur near the tank opening where the gasoline vapor is in the flammable range.1 A spark discharge directly from the surface of the gasoline to the grounded nozzle also is possible. Normally, this will not result in ignition because the concentration of gasoline vapor near the liquid is above the flammable limit.

Theory and experience suggest that the condition most likely to lead to a spark discharge is filling a metal container or tank that is insulated from ground, i.e., one that is ungrounded. This is the situation that exists when a metal container is placed on a plastic bed liner.

Fires initiated by sparks can be prevented if static electricity is not allowed to build up, particularly on conductors. One defense is to dissipate electrical charge by creating paths that allow it to flow to ground. Placing a container on the ground makes it easier for electrical charge to escape. Cement or dirt is a better conductor of electricity than asphalt and, therefore, better grounding surfaces. While vehicles that are driven to a service station may not appear to be grounded, they are. Tires are good enough conductors to allow electrical charge to escape to ground.

Keeping the dispenser nozzle in contact with the container at the inlet or with the fuel tank fill tube creates another path by which electrical charge can escape. This is because the dispenser is grounded and the nozzle is bonded to the dispenser through the dispenser hose.

When a vehicle or other equipment can’t be placed on the ground, a second defense is to fuel more slowly. The slower gasoline flows, the less static electricity is generated.

#9 My engine recommendations.

Fuel injection greatly improved these gas engines. The best diesels have direct injection, turbo’s, and intercoolers.

·My favorite Ford engines: 4.9L (300 cu) 6 cylinder, 7.5L (460 cu) 8 cylinder, older engines. 5.4L (330) 8 cylinder, 7.3L (444 cu) 8 cylinder diesel turbo 1994.5 Navistar Power Strokes and newer.

·My favorite Dodge engines: 5.2L (318 cu) 8 cylinder, 5.9L (360 cu) 8 cylinder, 5.9L (360 cu) 6 cylinder Cummins turbo diesel any year.

·My favorite GM engines: 4.3L (262 cu) 6 cylinder, 5.7L (350 cu) 8 cylinder, 7.4L (454 cu) 8 cylinder. Vortec series are the best.

In the medium duty two-ton trucks the GM 6.0L 366 cu gas engine and the Navistar 466 cu diesel are my favorites.

#10 New or used, truck and auto dealer.

NEW verses USED Revised

We all know how nothing stays the same. Markets change, economies change, my weight changes. With the recession of 2001 and that darn 0% financing on new trucks that seemed great at the time, we now have too many used trucks. This year, 2002 we can hardly sell any new trucks. Free money, 0% interest, took folks way into the future out of the market by buying early. And you can only go so low on a new truck and then you have one of those bankruptcy sales. Used trucks get churned over and over at the dealer auction when things get slow and finely some dealers gets great bargains. One year old trucks are still too close to a new truck but 2 years old and older trucks are way down there. Now of course you know what I say about used 4x4's, they need a great extended warranty Click Be sure to check or have checked a used truck over carefully. I'll be coming out with a list of what to look for soon.

We have all heard how much you loose when you drive a new car off the lot. The people you hear this saying the most from are the USED CAR SALESMAN. They make more money on used than new. Cars drop like a rock no matter whether they were used or new. You don’t have an invoice on used vehicles and you have no way of knowing exactly how much they traded it in for. Very few people pay full retail for new vehicles and then there are those rebates. It would surprise you how close the actual sales price of a new vehicle and a one-year-old one are. And you know the new one wasn’t raced to the airport by 100 different people. I actually know people who trade every year and never change their oil. Some of the used vehicles make it all over the US that have come from the last hurricane. You can see the water damage on the starters and exhaust systems. Some manufactures, especially Ford has different settings from the factory by the altitude of the states they are sold in. Now in trucks, since they have better resale value and generally last longer, can be priced even higher at one year old than new. I have seen that happen often. To see a significant difference, you need to go back 3 years in trucks. The ¾-ton also holds their value better than ½ ton’s and extended cabs or crew cabs 4X4’s are the kings. In 4X4’s used, can be a whole new experience. Since you won’t know how much off road use it had, a 4X4 can create it’s own payment! It seems that every repair on the bottom of a 4X4 costs $2000. If you are the first owner of a truck, especially a 4X4 or diesel and you take care of it, can last you decades. I see a lot of people buying diesels that don’t know anything about how to take care of them.

Should you buy a used truck from a New Dealer or a used dealer?

There are several great used car lots, ones that have been in families for generations. And there are several that are high pressure, and target you for one big sale. I’ve known used lots that send buyers all over the country buying the last flood, hurricane, hail, tornado damage vehicles at auctions and ship them home for the repaint and rebuild. Ever wonder how used lots have the latest model year vehicles? Manufactures also sell the lemons they can’t fix at those auctions. Watch out for the newer models with low miles thinking there is still factory warranty left. They don’t all have it. If you live in a small town, usually the used lots can’t be too bad and have to stand behind what they sell or they get escorted out of town, either financially or otherwise.

I’ve known a lot of car salesman in my 10 years of being in the business. They make more money working for the used lots. The problem with new lots is, the big ones with the most inventory, have the most “new green pea salespeople”. Which naturally don’t know much about trucks. What do you do? I suggest you do your own homework. Go to the manufacture’s web sites. Go to my web site of course! New dealers have the manufacture behind them on new and usually on the used inventory also. With the factory certified mechanic’s close by, it’s easier to have the vehicle checked out and if the vehicle you are looking at is the same brand they sell new, it can be traced on the factory computer for recalls and repair history. AND you can find out if there really is factory warranty left! Used car lots of ill repute will watch you drive away hoping to not see you again nor will they be your friends when the truck breaks down. If the New Dealer is well established, they have considerably more invested in their franchise than the used lot with a 2-year lease on their property. The better auto auctions that sell the factory program cars from the manufactories lease returns and executive cars usually sell these vehicles to the franchise dealers first at special monthly sales. Guess whom the auctions sell the lemons and wore out trade-ins to? We know that there are good and bad dealers of both new and used. But since the prices are comparable between the two, which one wants your future sales and service business? And if you find unbelievable deals somewhere, what does common sense say?

When it comes to recommending the best truck, everyone has their opinion and few of us humans won’t let facts get in our way. When I was growing up, my dad had a model 92 Massey combine and my uncle had a John Deere model 95. And of course we thought the Massey had to be the best combine around. Then a funny thing happened. I ended up helping my uncle harvest wheat one summer. I couldn’t believe how easy the John Deere was to grease and work on. Everything you worked on was on the outside where you could get to it. The Massey had everything buried to the inside. Since you always have to work on combines, I was impressed. But you know I never could convince my dad to buy a John Deere! That’s how trucks are. They keep improving and if you get the latest model, (after their first year). You will like it much better than your old model.

My opinion of present truck choices.

I’ve owned all three trucks, Chevy, Ford, and Dodge, pulled with all three and for about 10 years have sold all three. And right now in the model year 1999, 2000, 2001 and 2002, I would say the most improved and best overall rated truck with enough history behind it’s present model to measure dependability, would be the Ford Super Duty. If you look at 98 and back, the 98 Dodge and 97 Ford, (Ford didn’t make a 98 F250 or above but came out with the 99 model early,) the Dodge and Ford are very close. Dodge had the best axles; manual transmissions in both would do the best job. In 99 Ford greatly improved their automatic. I still don’t recommend the auto in the Dodge if you are pulling a large trailer even in the 2002 model. The GM with the old model 6.5L diesel was not in the same ballpark as Dodge and Ford. Which is why the all-new GM Duramax in 2001. And then there’s the front suspension. GM likes bushings and CV joints. Which work great on cars. On trucks I like leaf springs and universal joints. All three trucks use the same 6 speed manual transmission in 2001 and 2002. Dodge has detuned their diesel with the automatic transmission and the 5-speed manual transmission. To get Dodge’s highest torque and horsepower, you have to get their 6 speed manual transmission. Dodge has greatly improved their truck from the Power Wagons of the seventies. And Dodge was the first to see the need for a “real” diesel engine for which I’m grateful. I do like the manifold heater found in the Cummins diesel in the Dodge verses the glow plugs in the Ford. The new GM Duramax diesel has both a manifold heater and glow plugs. I’m not fond of the strut suspension in the front of the Dodge though. Talk about an expensive shock absorber. If you want to compare rear suspensions, go to a sale barn sometime and see the loaded trucks. Ranchers know how to load to the max and you will see the Ford and GM’s sitting fairly level. The Dodge was the one squatting the most and has the most “aftermarket springs” added to them. In the late nineties Dodge greatly improved the rear springs. I hope that since Mercedes is now involved with Dodge, that the quality of their bodies will improve. If you had a Dodge truck in the seventies or eighties, compare the boxes from then till now and you will be happy. The last really heavy-duty box that Ford or GM had was 1972. All three-truck builders could use improvements in their boxes now. I would hate to drop a salt block in any of them. Dodge was in last place as far as brakes were concerned for years and in 2002 jumped ahead of Ford and GM finally getting 4-wheel disc brakes and mighty fine brakes at that.

I had higher hopes for the Duramax. I haven’t had enough good reports on Duramax pulling loads. The engine is new, GM reps have told me it’s a proven design similar to the engines in Isuzu trucks, but I haven’t found one in an Isuzu truck that’s similar yet. They also told me the Allison tranny is the same one in the big trucks and RTD buses. I sale medium duty 2 ton trucks with the big Allison tranny and believe me that tranny would barely fit in the cab let alone under the floor. The Ford Power Stroke offers a 4.10 rear axle ratio in the F350 dually, and so does the Dodge 3500, the GM Duramax only has the 3.73. I’m near the mountains so I like a lower geared axle. Ford and Dodge have a cast iron mono beam, (one piece axle) Dana front axle. GM has an independent aluminum GM front axle. All three makes have the German 6-speed manual transmission. This would give Dodge a chance to enter the picture. The Dodge Cummins is an in-line 6 cylinder that needs more gears to compete because the lower rpm band range than a V-8. So in summary if you need an automatic tranny get the Ford. If you want a manual tranny, test-drive the Dodge and Ford. I’m hoping in the future GM will put cast iron heads on the Duramax and get the rest of the bugs out. GM does have the best ride of the big trucks, and their Duramax diesel is the quietest from the outside. The Allison 1000 automatic is on the right track for what we need in pickup truck transmissions, but their track record needs to improve on the $2295 option. As far as 4x4 systems, the only true part time one left is on the Ford Super Duties. Basically every other manufacture has a solid hub in the front axle that can’t be turned off. I like to see competition in trucks and think in another couple years things could be very close. You can’t beat the power of diesel but if you are only going to use it for pulling a few times a year, you have to decide the economics between gas and diesel. Competition in the truck market is getting closer all the time. This is an exciting time to be reporting on trucks. 2003 Dodge Heavy Duty will make it closer. Hopefully GM, Chevy and GMC will improve their track record this year so I can recommend them for pulling trailers. Duramax and the Allison 1000 have many good attributes that I like.

#11 First year blues.

I know you’ve heard it before. But we all give in to our emotions. The new model looks so cool you just have to have it! I’ve seen, bought and sold first year models. As hard as the manufactures try to get the bugs out, trucks are very complicated products. It sometimes takes thousands of vehicles in use to find the weak links. Sure they give recalls when most things are discovered, but have many trips to the shop do you have time for? Reviews and evaluations by Consumer Reports of the new model of truck take time. They are usually complete half way through the year. The reviews you see before and at the introduction of a new truck are usually from the manufactures and do you think they are objective? You’re the one stuck with the payments and downtime, don’t be the Guinea pig too. And of course the price is it's highest at introduction the first year, let someone else pay the premium. I know you're a wise consumer, you purchased my report didn't you?

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“The Truth about Warranties. Don’t give yourself TWO auto payments!”

After you finally get the price you want on your truck, of course it took seven trips to the manager for the next “final offer because they are loosing so much money on this deal,” now exhausted from the five hours of test driving and reading the big magic marker offers brought back by the salesperson. Finally you think it’s over, you’re relaxed. You are even joking with the salesperson about the whole negotiating thing. And guess what you just got set up for? Oh No! It’s the Finance Manager. Look at that pin stripe suit, he must be important! Oh No! Look at that Smile and Handshake; he must be my Best Friend! Look at all the awards on the wall! And Look he got me the payment I worked hard to get earlier and Gave me a warranty (without raising), (raising a little), or (lowering my payment)! He must really like me! “ It’s amazing how often this exact scenario happens each day at dealerships.” Did we forget there is “no free lunch.” Somebody has to pay for it and that my friend is you!

Dealerships use what is called “leg.” They are pulling yours! When working your payments, they left room for extra interest and a warranty in the payment they quoted you and you worked so hard to get them down to. Another good reason to “Get the money First.” I’m not against warranties; in most cases I recommend them. I just think you should know what you are buying and for how much. Not being rushed into it at the last minute when you’re tired and just want to go home in Your New Truck, or at least New to You, so you start signing everything in site. As I recommend getting your auto loan before you go shopping for trucks, I also recommend doing your homework before you buy the “Free” warranty from a dealer. All warranties are not created equal. Some are down right worthless! They only cover what doesn’t break down. Then try to get your new “Best Friend the finance manager,” to return your phone calls! His phone’s not working. He still love’s you; he just doesn’t want to talk to you anymore.

Why not test drive your warranty like you do the pickup you’re looking at!

You hear a lot in the press about recalls. It’s has become pretty much common place to have recalls from the manufacture. They will fix these problems, but it shows you that they trying to make vehicles too fast. With the big boom in the economy that we had for the last 10 years,” yes I did say had,” manufactures had record truck sales. There were assembly lines with workers jogging along the trucks putting parts on. Some manufactures had 3 shifts running 24 hrs a day. Some manufactures put up quick factories in Mexico and South America. I have seen several trucks built “99 to 2000” with defects that only come from too much hurried production. Now it looks like the manufactures will have more time in increase quality, at least I hope that’s what they will do with this slow period. But buyer beware! There are dozens of computers that run automobiles today. The time when you could work on your own car or truck is passing. Mechanics today have to plug their computers into your car's computer to find the problem.

You don’t usually know what the first owner of the truck did with it. Did they pull a trailer? A really big trailer? Did they do all the required maintenance? Did they race uncle Jed to the airport in it? Especially with diesels, filters and servicing can mean the difference between it lasting 50,000 miles or 300,000 miles. This is when you need the truck health insurance! Four-wheel drives have twice as many expensive parts, as do their cousins the 4x2. When things like transfer cases, differentials, axles and trannies go down, you could be adding several zeros on the end of that check you trade the mechanic for your fixed again pickup truck or you could be glad you test drove the right warranty for 30 days to see if you like it. Don’t forget the rental car that’s included with the warranty, if yours breaks down. You will still need to get to work to pay the car payment even without the car. And since moving to the big city, having “road side assistance” to fix or tow my vehicles, gives me great peace of mind knowing my family won’t be stranded on the freeway!

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“The User Friendly Warranty”
You can also call these folks to get a monthly interest free payment plan called “Pay As You Go Program.” Warrantybynet starts your warranty when you enroll with them, not the in-service date, (when the vehicle was first titled,) like your friend the dealership finance manager generally uses. Look at it as you would your health insurance, hope you don’t need it but tickled when the hospital brings in the best doctors because you have the best insurance!

And that’s my opinion of ten years in the auto business wondering why everybody is some kind of a manager in the auto business, who makes a commission when they smile and shake your hand. Me I’m just a “good ole country boy trying to make good “ in the city and save the farm! I recommend what I believe in. Back when I was still farming and ranching, I used to go to Denver and help my friends buy trucks from the “Sharks” late on Saturday night at the end of the month. Most of the sales people you meet are regular people, but things get interesting when they bring you their “manager.”

I was looking to buy a 2000 used Taurus from a new car dealership I work with. The Taurus had 29,000 miles on it. I priced the best-extended warranty I could buy from the manufacture for 6 years 100,000 miles. The dealer cost was higher from the manufacture with $50 deductible than the quote I got from Warrantybynet with $0 deductible and the same coverage! I’m convinced; go ahead take a test drive.

“The Truth about Auto Loans. Always get the Money First!”

I’ve sold trucks to folks through my Internet business that brought me this Internet loan package. They had a better interest rate than I could get them if I could even get them financed at all! Now this looks interesting. Applying for credit before you buy. It’s like walking in with Cash! I had to learn more. This online loan center is Great! They have the lowest rates, the fastest approval time, and it’s so simple. In fact I just applied through them. They approved me for an auto loan on the Memorial Day weekend when the rest of the banks were closed!

Let the Internet do the work it was designed to do. Save you Time and Money! You will know right away, your rate and payment. This is the fastest and easiest auto loan process I have seen in 10 years in the auto selling business. You know how good your credit is, you deserve a better rate then your local bank wants to give you and why sit down there in their lobby and wait to see a banker. Get the best rate in the comfort and privacy of your home. You are in control. After all it is your money, you are paying for it!

“Just take it home today, we’ll deal with the bank. Don’t worry about it. We do this all the time!”

Dealers like to “Hook You,” into thinking you are approved for a loan and then after you show your new vehicle to all the neighbors, they call you. And guess what, they can “Get you Financed,” with more down or a higher payment! The other side is they send you home in your new vehicle when they know they can’t get you financed. Then they call you to tell you how hard they worked but that “darn ole bank” just wouldn’t budge! Now they Have to charge you that famous $.25 a mile and $25 a day while they were “working so hard for your loan.”

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Not great credit, re-establish your Credit, without paying Too Much for the Truck. Don’t get screwed Twice by the dealer! With Zero Down! If there is financial sadness in your past, you are Not Alone! Hey I bought my farm in the late 70’s when everything was going up, survived the 80’s wheat embargo with Russia, when everything was going down, wheat dropped from $5.00 a bushel to $2.00, then got divorced in the 90’s, had to move to Denver to try to save the farm again. Believe me I Know Financial Sadness! If you go to a typical auto dealer, they will view you as fresh meat! They think you are a Big Gross Profit with nowhere to go. So they jack up the price of vehicle, thinking you will be darn lucky if they can Get You Financed. Then they max out the interest rate. You will have to pay a higher interest; the bank will figure higher risk to them. But don’t go in unarmed! Get your loan first. Know your payment and rate. Then you can negotiate the price, as you should. Now you have choices. Buy from a private party, buy online, buy through the fleet department or go to the dealers and walk out on a few of them until you get the respect you deserve!

Refinance Your Auto Loan!

Interest rates change constantly. It might surprise that you are paying too much. Apply for free to see if you can save $30, $50 or more a month. If you were a first time buyer or repairing your credit see if you’ve re-established enough to get a better rate.

If your report has problems please email me: [email protected]

Now here is my disclaimer: I drove a tractor in a circle summer fallowing for a couple of decades, so as I told the folks in Denver when I moved here 10 years ago, if you think I can spell or remember the grammar I learned in high school, you’d be incorrect. I don’t know everything and can make mistakes. Just like listening to the preacher on Sunday, you better follow along in the Bible to be sure. Sorry for any mistakes they were not intentional. Thanks for reading.

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The diesels I used on the farm were the most expensive equipment I had. I paid close attention to maintenance. Filters were a lot cheaper than diesel mechanics and who could afford the downtime! All about Filters and Oil